Open this photo in gallery: Tekka Centre in Little India, Singapore.LWX/Supplied

The dishes were placed in a circle on the table, like a painter’s palette of the hawker centre’s finest offerings: tender, poached chicken served with rice cooked in broth and redolent of ginger, garlic and pandan leaves; savoury fried radish cakes topped with spring onions; spicy fish-ball laksa with thick vermicelli noodles and strips of bean curd that exploded with rich coconut curry broth when bitten into.…

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